Get Rid of Fear

"How shall I rid myself of fear?"
A SAMURAI AND A ZEN MASTER
Get any book for free on: www.Abika.com
3
"How can you rid yourself of what you cling to?"
"You mean I actually cling to my fears? I cannot agree to that."
"Consider what your fear protects you from and you will agree! And you will see your
folly."
Anthony de Mello, SJ
"One Minute Wisdom"

Get Rid of Fear

"How shall I rid myself of fear?"
A SAMURAI AND A ZEN MASTER
Get any book for free on: www.Abika.com
3
"How can you rid yourself of what you cling to?"
"You mean I actually cling to my fears? I cannot agree to that."
"Consider what your fear protects you from and you will agree! And you will see your
folly."
Anthony de Mello, SJ
"One Minute Wisdom"

Defense Against Thrown Knives

A Ninja needs to be prepared to defend him or herself
against thrown knives. There are three basic ways to
accomplish this:
1) Dodging
2) Blocking
3) Catching
These are listed in order of their difficulty to perform.
Dodging
In order to successfully evade thrown knives, a Ninja must
understand how a knife flies when it is thrown. Once this is
accurately understood, a Ninja can effectively judge how a
knife will come at him. Fortunately, a thrown knife is
committed to its path of flight once the thrower releases it. If
the Ninja can time his actions just right, he will move just a
split second before the knife is released. At that point the
thrower is committed and cannot take back his action. By
the time the knife reaches its target, the Ninja is no longer
there. A knife is not a guided missile; it will not actively seek
out its target if the target moves, but will continue along its
path of flight. Once a Ninja understands this, he or she can
duck under, sidestep, or otherwise evade a thrown knife.
This should be practiced with safe practice knives only. Such
knowledge will prove invaluable to attacker and defender
alike.

A Ninja

may intentionally throw a knife so that it lands
flat or strikes a target with the butt of the handle, in an
attempt to subdue or stun an opponent. This is a difficult
technique to master, but it can be used to capture enemies
alive or simply to render them unconscious. Such stunning
blows are usually to the head.
Special Uses
Ninja may attach small blinding dust bombs, smoke,
explosive, or incendiary grenades to throwing knives in
order to increase their effectivenss of lethality. A simple
flaming knife, used to start fires, can be made by wrapping
strips of cloth soaked in flammable liquid around either the
handle or the blade (depending upon how the knife will be
thrown). The strips are ignited just prior to throwing the
knife.
Poisoned knives are another special use. Even a nick or a
scratch from a poisoned throwing knife can prove fatal.
Poisoned throwing knives can be made by coating the blade
with poison paste. It is best to throw poisoned throwing
knives by the handle. Avoid coming in direct contact with
the poison.

To Kill

To kill an opponent with a knife throw is the most difficult
purpose to achieve. The best lethal target is the throat or
neck. An accurately thrown blade can sever the windpipe,
one of the jugular veins, or even the spinal cord. Other lethal
targets are:
The Eyes
The Temples
The Open Mouth
Of course all of these targets are difficult to hit. Contrary
to accounts on television and in the movies, thrown knives to
the upper torso are seldom fatal. Most people cannot throw
hard enough to pierce the muscle and bone of the rib cage in
order to damage the major internal organs. A fortunate
throw is always possible, but should not be counted on or
expected in actual combat. The result of a thrown knife to the
upper torso will most likely be a wound of varied seriousness.
Secondary Uses

To Wound

To wound an opponent is more difficult. The best chance is
to strike the softer areas of the lower torso, such as the
abdomen and the kidneys. The upper portions of the torso
are protected by bone. The thighs are a good wounding
target. A throwing knife in the muscle of the upper leg makes
running difficult or impossible. Such a wound will give
pause to any enemy. It may only slow him down, or it may
drop him or even strike the femoral artery and cause death
from blood loss in minutes.

Knife Throwing in Combat

In actual combat, Ninja throw knives for three primary
purposes:
1) To Distract
2) To Wound
3) To Kill
There are other secondary and special uses, but these are
the three most basic purposes.
To Distract
Most people are easily distacted by something thrown at
them, especially if it is thrown at their face. There is a
natural reaction to protect the face and eyes. To effectively
distract an opponent, throw a knife as quickly and as
accurately as possible at his face. Usually an opponent will
try to avoid or dodge the knife. This will gain the Ninja time
to escape, create an opening for an attack, or perform some
other action. It doesn’t matter if the knife hits the target or
not, but if it does, so much the better.

Two or more

practitioners will want to work through a
number of scenarios. What if both Ninjas have throwing
knives? What if they are inside/outside, in the forest/city, or
in the day/night? Practicing realistic situations will prepare
the knife throwing Ninja for actual combat.
Once Ninja have mastered the basic skills at ten feet, and
have begun training with live targets, at least twice each
week (two of the three weekly training sessions), they should
still throw two hundred knives at their target. Mark or stake
off distances of 5, 10, 15, 20, 25 and 30 feet from the target.
Some of the longer ranges will be difficult to manage inside.
This can also be performed with tape on floors or bright
spray paint on grass. The tape can always be removed from
the floor, and the spray paint will eventually wear away on
the grass. Begin to practice from these distances. Some
techniques will undoubtably prove to be better than others at
some ranges, but this also may differ from person to person.
It is up to practitioners to experiment and determine what
works best at a given range in a specific situation. Only
through actual practice and experience can useful knowledge
be gained.

Moving Targets

Once the basic skills are mastered, at least once a week
(one of the three weekly sessions) a Ninja will want to train
with live, moving targets. What could be a more challenging
target than another Ninja? But one thing must be re-
membered: NEVER USE REAL KNIVES WHILE PRAC-
TICING WITH LIVE OPPONENTS. Instead, use one of the
practice knife patterns (see Diagram 3.3) to fashion ap-
propriate practice weapons out of soft wood, plastic or hard
rubber. Other designs can be invented, but they should fly
well, similar to a real throwing knife, and they should not
have sharp points. A crude, but effective training weapon
can also be made from cutting a l/2 inch diameter dowel rod
into 10 to 12 inch lengths and rounding the ends. Such
training weapons will not fly exactly like throwing knives,
but the flight characteristics will be close enough. They may
hurt a bit to get hit with one, especially in the face, so wear
the eye and mouth protection. But it will be better than being
struck with a real throwing knife. Be prepared for some
slight injuries and bruises, and try to concentrate on accuracy
rather than power.

When putting

the backstop together, make sure that the
bolts or nails do not protrude out of the front of the target.
This will prevent throwing knives from bending and
breaking. If the supporting post will be placed in the ground,
either by driving them in or using a posthole digger, cut them
to a point and place them two feet into the earth. The
backstop can also be leaned against a tree or wall.
If the backstop will be left outside for any length of time,
protect the wood by treating it with a coat or two of protective
stain or paint. Use the kind, commonly available, for
outdoor wood and furniture. With care, the backstop will last
for a long while, depending on how much it is used. But with
consistent training one or more of the front boards will need
to be replaced eventually. This is a relatively simple task.
Once the backstop is in place in a proper area, a Ninja will
want to consider targets.

The Backstop

Whether a target is used inside or outside, it needs to have
a backstop to stop the knives thrown at it. The backstop
provides a convenient place to hang a variety of targets,
most of which can be made out of paper. Constructing a good
backstop that will last for years is often neglected, but it is as
important as purchasing the right knives. It requires a
certain amount of time, work and money, but every serious
practitioner of Ninjitsu should make one. A basic design for
NINJA KNIFE THROWING
a portable/stationary backdrop is given below. The design is
a simple one, and can be modified to fit the specific needs of
the user (see Diagram 3.1, throwing knife backstop).

Where to Train

Select a safe area, inside or outside, with a proper backstop
and target. Beginning practitioners are normally very wild
with their throws. If the target is inside, in a room or
basement for example, there should not be any windows,
furniture, or any other objects nearby which could be
damaged. The best solution is to use an entire wall as a
backstop, either covering it with wood or padding. Never
throw knives at plaster or concrete walls. Plasterboard will
not hold up long and is costly to repair. Knives may go
through the plasterboard and become lost in between the
walls. Knives thrown against concrete will dull, bend, or
even break. They will also have a tendency to bounce off the
wall, which is dangerous.
Outside, make certain that there is plenty of clear room
around in order to throw. There should not be any people,
pets, or property within range of the target. Be aware, also,
that throwing knives outside will often attract a good deal of
attention. Onlookers should be briefed about the dangers
involved with being around a knife thrower.

...

5. Remember that throwing knives are not toys. They are
deadly weapons. Treat them as such at all times.
6. Keep throwing knives away from small children or
irresponsible adults.
7. Never throw a knife carelessly or in jest. Serious injury
usually results from fooling around with dangerous weapons.
When to Train
Set up a consistent schedule to throw knives at least three
times each week. Stick to the schedule with dedication and
determination. Throw at least two hundred knife casts for
each of the three weekly training sessions. Concentrate on
mastering each of the throwing techniques in this book one
at a time. Do not move onto the next technique until the one
before it is mastered, Work on proper technique first; a
thrown knife should stick firmly in the target. Second, work
on accuracy. Third, work on power. Fourth, work on speed.
Fifth and finally, work on throwing from any position. A
Ninja should be able to throw a knife accurately at any time,
from any position.

Training Methods and Safety Concerns

The most important basic safety principles are:
1. Always wear safety glasses or goggles during any kind
of practice. Most serious injuries, if they do occur, are usually
to the eyes. Throwing knives, especially at short ranges,
sometimes take unexpected bounces, and may rebound back
at the thrower.
2. Always wear a mouthpiece, such as the kind worn by
boxers and football players, to protect the teeth. Broken
teeth are not serious injuries, but dental work is expensive.
3. Observers should always stand behind the thrower and
stay alert when knives are being thrown.
4. Place a backstop and target properly in order to
minimize any chance of a stray knife injuring people, pets, or
property.

Horizontally Thrown Knife viewed from the side

A. STRAIGHT THROW (SHORT DISTANCES)
B. SPINNING THROW
1
1
MORE AIR
RESISTANCE
AT GREATER
RANGES
Estimating Distances
A knife thrower must be able to judge distances with a
good degree of precision in order to throw accurately. Such
ability can only be gained from long hours of practice. Begin
with established distances which are marked off. (See the
following section on training.) Once a Ninja learns to hit a
target from any distance from five to thirty feet, he or she
should practice to be able to hit the target at any range in
between. Long distance throws from thirty up to fifty feet
can be practiced in advanced training.
Knife Rotations
Short range throws, approximately ten feet or less, usually
cause a knife to travel in a straight line to the target. Beyond
this range, however, throwing knives execute one or more
spins or half spins (up to several in number) before striking
the target. Only through experience and dedicated training
can a Ninja learn to estimate distance and judge how many
rotations or half rotations a knife will need to make in order
to strike a target point first. Remember that knives thrown
by the handle must execute whole or complete spins (1,2,3,4,
5,6, etc). Knives thrown by the blade must execute a number
of half spins (l/2,1%, 2%, 3%, 4X, i%, 6X, etc.) Once the basic
theories and principles listed in this section have been
learned, the Ninja must establish an effective training
program.

Vertically Thrown Knife

Vertical and Horizontal Throwing
First, the difference between vertical and horizontal
throwing should be made clear. When vertically thrown, and
when viewed from the side as it travels through the air, a
throwing knife looks similar to the knife in Diagram 2.1.
Vertically thrown knives travel swifter because they have
less air resistance. Horizontally thrown knives, viewed in
flight from the side, look similar to the knife in Diagram 2.2.
Because it travels flat against the wind, a horizontally
thrown knife meets greater resistance in the air. This
decreases distance, velocity and penetration.
For short distances, however (approximately 5 to 10 feet),
the horizontal throw is just as effective.
NINJA KNIFE THROWING

Sidearm Throwing

The throwing techniques already mentioned are used to
throw either forwards or backwards. Similar to throwing a
frisbee or a baseball, sidearm knife throwing is more difficult
to master and requires a great deal of practice and training.
After selecting the proper grip, bring the throwing arm back
into the throwing position. Whether the knife is held to the
inside or the outside of the body, the throwing arm is swung
across the front of the body and released precisely before the
end of the cast. Follow through and recover. Photos 2.23 and
2.24 show a Ninja using a pinch grip in the sidearm throw.
The most difficult part of sidearm throwing is getting the
knife to fly straight at the target. Usually the knife goes to
one side or the other when beginners start practicing this
throw. The problem usually has to do with an improper
release.

The Overhand Throw

After choosing the proper grip, cock the throwing arm just
behind the ear. Shifting the weight as explained in the
description of the throwing stance, cast the throwing arm
forward at the target, releasing the throwing knife just
before the end of the stroke. Follow through and recover.
Photos 2.19 and 2.20 show a Ninja using a blade grip in the
overhand throw.
The Underhand Throw
After selecting the proper grip, cock the throwing arm
back behind the hip. Propel the throwing arm forward,
releasing the throwing knife at the proper moment, just
before the end of the stroke. Follow through and recover.
Photos 2.21 and 2.22 show a Ninja using a palm grip in the
underhand throw. In this particular type of throw, the knife
is thrown straight into the target, usually at close range
(approximately ten feet or less). An interesting variation of
this throw reverses the motion, beginning with the knife in
front of the thrower. Ninja use this technique to throw
knives at pursuers while running.

grip

The Handle Grip
When throwing a knife by the handle, grip the end of the
handle so that it is centered in the hand. The thumb should
rest against the inside of the handle and the rest of the
fingers should curl around the handle securely (see Photos
2.5 thru 2.8). Always throw knives so that they travel
vertically. Knives can be thrown horizontally, but they
travel and strike with less velocity, hitting power, and
penetration at longer distances.


The Blade Grip
To throw a knife by the blade (see Photos 2.9 thru 2.12),
grip the end of the blade with the thumb running parallel to
the length of the blade and the rest of the fingers curled up
against the opposite side. Again, throw the knife vertically.


Two other grips are worth mentioning. These are the pinch
grip (see Photos 2.13 thru 2.15), and the palm grip (see Photos
2.16 thru 2.18). The pinch grip is performed by pinching
either the end of the handle or the point, primarily between
the thumb and forefinger. The palm grip is performed by
cupping the blade or the handle against the open palm, and
holding the knife against the palm with the thumb. These
grips can be used to throw underhand, overhand, sidearm,
vetically, or horizontally. All of these throws should be
practiced according to the guidelines which follow.

NINJA KNIFE THROWING

These are only a few of the possibilities. By now, the reader
has probably come up with some of his or her own ideas. Try
them out; invention and adaptation is an important part of
Ninjitsu.
The Throwing Stance
A Ninja should learn to throw knives accurately from any
position (even lying prone or hanging upside down), but
begin with the “Neko” or cat stance. The feet should form a
ninety degree angle and should be comfortably separated
one to one and a half shoulder widths apart. Most of the
weight should be centered over the rear leg. As part of the
proper throw, the weight should shift to the front leg and the
hips and shoulder should twist into the throw, rocketting the
body’s entire power into the smooth stroke of the throwing
arm. Aiming is calculated through the precise release of the
knife just before the end of the stroke, driving the weapon
with maximum force, velocity, and accuracy into the target.
A smooth follow through should be accompanied by a quick,
agile recovery-leaving the Ninja ready for the next throw.
See Photos 2.1 thru 2.4 for a depiction of the basic stance,
weight shift, follow through and recovery. Practitioners can
use this basic technique for most of the throws described in
this book, or modify the stance to suit their own needs.